Wave Characteristics
Basic Characteristics
Wave Steepness
The steepness of deep water waves cannot exceed about 1/7 The steepness of deep water waves cannot exceed about 1/7. Beyond this, the wave will begin to break or "white cap."
Wave Period Wave period is defined as the time it takes successive wave crests or successive wave troughs to pass a fixed point.
Wave Speed Mathematical characteristics include wave speed, group velocity, and energy. These characteristics are unique, depending on whether the wave is traveling in deep water or shallow water. Before the differences between the deep and shallow water waves can be understood, you'll need a general understanding of wave speed.
Deep Water
จากสมการการเคลื่อนที่ของคลื่นในน้ำลึก ความเร็วของคลื่นในน้ำลึกขึ้นอยู่กับอะไร ? A. The deeper the water depth, the faster the wave speed. B. The longer the wavelength, the faster the wave speed. C. The higher the wave height, the faster the wave speed. D. The shorter the wavelength, the faster the wave speed.
Shallow Water
What does the shallow water wave speed equation tell us about waves traveling in shallow water? A. Wave speed slows as the water becomes more shallow. B. Wave height increases as the water becomes mores shallow. C. wavelength increases as the water becomes mores shallow. D. Wave speed increases as the wave height increases.
Group Velocity
Significant Wave Height where: Mean H = Average wave height Hs or H1/3 = Significant wave height H1/10 = Highest one-tenth wave height Hmax = Maximum probable wave height for a large sample of waves
Wave Motion At the ocean surface, the orbital radius followed by a water particle is equal to the wave height divided by two (H/2). This orbital radius decreases with depth. Effectively, little or no water particle motion occurs beneath a depth of L/2.
สมมติให้คลื่นลูกหนึ่ง มีคาบการเคลื่อนที่เท่ากับ 15 วินาที และมีขนาดความยาวคลื่นเท่ากับ 351 เมตร ที่ระดับความลึกเท่าใดที่ลูกเรือดำน้ำจะไม่รู้สึกถึงการหมุนวนของคลื่นด้านบน A. 245 เมตร B. 175 เมตร C. 95 เมตร D. 355 เมตร